The phrase “European cycling vacation” often conjures up images of lycra-clad cyclists in tight formations, pedalling along narrow continental roads, with cows grazing in nearby fields and elderly locals pausing from tending their vegetable patches to watch the vibrant procession speed past.
In contrast, as a group of Cycle Tours Bike and Barge vacationers passes by, they resemble an extended family—encompassing all ages—leisurely cycling while engaging in conversation and occasionally pausing to snap photos.
A number of years ago, my daughter and I took part in a Cycle Tours North of Holland trip. We spent seven days riding north from Amsterdam along the Zuiderzee to the Isle of Tesle and back south to Amsterdam along the coast. The trip was delightful, and my teenage daughter was ecstatic about becoming toned and tanned, even with the relaxed pace and the cool weather in the Netherlands. Exploring Holland’s back roads and bike paths was a wonderful experience, especially with our fellow cyclists, who soon became new friends.
Fast-forward nearly ten years, and a conversation around the dinner table at a holiday gathering inspired my niece and sister to join us for cycling trip 2.0.
We scoured the internet looking for options, but the excellent inaugural experience with Cycle Tours had us turning to their website. The company offers both guided and unguided bike and barge or bike and hotel options. There are trips through various European countries, but we chose the Amsterdam to Bruges guided bike and barge trip.
I like the idea of returning to the same bed every night, and the flat Dutch landscape appealed to us all. Our travel dates coincided with a stay on the Lisa Marleen, a retrofitted barge that accommodates a maximum of 22 passengers in 10 rooms, each with its own bathroom, albeit compact.
When we booked our September departure in early January, we were surprised that some dates were already completely full. We went for a late September trip, skipped the more expensive e-bikes, and chose the touring bike option.
Cycle Tours trips include all meals while on the ship plus daily bagged lunches you make yourself each morning before leaving the boat. Added costs include airfare, any pre- and post-excursion hotel accommodations, and any alcohol consumed while on the boat.
We arrived in Amsterdam a few days early to explore the city and acclimatize to the time difference. The morning of our departure, we made our way to the Liza Marleen, moored in a basin adjacent to the Amsterdam city centre train station. We found our assigned rooms, stowed our bags, and introduced ourselves to the crew, who each wore many hats. Don’t be shocked if you see the skipper in the kitchen helping with the post-dinner washing up or the cook pumping up bike tires!
Our group for the week included a father and daughter from Gatineau, two couples in their 70s from Michigan, a middle-aged couple from Toronto with their two friends from Calgary and a middle-aged man from Ohio with his son and daughter-in-law who live in Chicago.
Our trip began by cruising on the inner waterways to Oude Wetering on the outskirts of Amsterdam. All eyes were fixed on the windows as the Liza Marleen looped around the city’s edge, traversed the suburbs, and finally reached our destination. Once there, our bikes were unloaded, and we went for a short 10k ride to familiarize ourselves with the sturdier Dutch bikes and learn the rules of the road.
Each morning, as we gathered for our communal breakfast, our guide, Anita, would outline the day’s route, detailing any planned stops along the way. We would leave the ship by 8:30 a.m. with our saddlebags packed with our lunch and any personal items we wanted for the day. Generally, we all stayed together as a group, but some days, a small group would break off, and we would see them back at the ship for dinner.
Over the next seven days, we cycled at a leisurely pace through the fields, past cows, windmills, beaches, and over major waterways. We took many breaks to visit towns and museums and for Anita to fill us in on significant information.
In Gouda, we visited the Museum Gouda and learnt that the clay from the rivers surrounding the city helped initiate a thriving pottery industry that morphed in the mid-1600s into an internationally recognized centre for producing clay pipes. The museum is worth a visit to see the room-sized interactive model of the city from 1562, and art lovers will be thrilled to see the 17th-century portraits of civic guards or militia.
Each day included a stop at a café that served Dutch apple pie, which we usually enjoyed with a cold beer. In Gouda, we stopped for their famous syrup waffles. The Dutch are territorial about who makes the best waffles, and according to Anita, Kamphuisen Syroopwafels are the best.
In Dordrescht, we marvelled at the oldest medieval city in Holland. During a stop at Kinderdijk, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, we admired the 19 windmills from the 18th century, which had been part of the old Dutch water management system to prevent flooding in the lowlands. The iconic windmills stand tall and graceful against a backdrop of tall grasses and rivers. Through a camera lens, they look great from every angle.
Near Burgh-Haamstede, we cycled past a lone, 23-metre-high tower, the Plompe Toren, that stands as a reminder of the resilience of the Dutch in fighting back the water. It is the lone remnant of the 15th-century village of Koudekerke that disappeared into the sea. Shortly after, we cycled across the nine-kilometre-long Oosterscheldekering dam that now safeguards the Netherlands from North Sea surges. Originally constructed as a dam, public pressure forced modifications to include sluice-gate doors that allow the free flow of water but can be closed if there is a threat of flooding.
In Ghent, Belgium, we visited the medieval castle Gravensteen, which dates from 1180. We donned headsets and toured the multi-storied fortification with the funny audio guide. The castle brings history to life and is a must-see.
After each day on the roads and pathways, we returned to the ship for a hearty home-cooked meal and shared our day’s highlights. The camaraderie during the trip is wonderful. The lines between cycling companions, cooks, stewards, and guides became blurred, and everyone ended up becoming friends.
There is no entertainment on board or screens, but none is required, as a Cycle Tours trip is really about making connections. After dinner, a group of guests and staff would stroll through the town where the ship was docked for the evening while those who stayed behind played cards or chatted together in the lounge area before retiring to their rooms.
On our last day, we battled headwinds as we cycled from Ghent to Bruges. At 45 kilometres, it wasn’t the longest ride, but it was the hardest of the week — the only time we regretted not opting for the e-bikes. Along the way, we passed many low concrete structures overgrown with vines that blended into the countryside. Had Anita not stopped to explain that these were German WWII bunkers, we would have cycled right past them. It was odd seeing these remnants on a bike path in suburban Belgium. We spent the night walking around the incredible medieval city of Bruges before returning to the ship to pack our belongings.
In the morning, we thanked the wonderful Cycle Tours staff, bid farewell to our newfound friends and made our way on foot to the nearby train station.
WHEN YOU GO:
We flew Ottawa-Toronto-Amsterdam and spent a few days touring the city before boarding the ship. The rail station in the Schiphol airport offers seamless transfers to downtown Amsterdam. Purchase single-use train tickets directly from a vending machine at the station and do the same in Bruges for your return train ride to Amsterdam.
Arriving at least a day in advance is a good idea to recover from jet lag and ensure you make it to the ship on time. Four members of our Cycle Tours group arrived directly from the airport and struggled to make it through the first day.
