What kind of trip starts with dinner at a Great Gatsby-esque hotel and ends with watching dolphins swim in the reflection of the sunrise? As a complete stranger to the mid-Alantic and Southern U.S., I didn’t expect Virginia Beach to be the answer to that question. However, after four days of endless exploration, delicious food and a beautiful landscape, I was left with a longing to relive the experience.
Day 1: Elegance and Mystery a The Cavalier Hotel
After our arrival at Hyatt House, not even the ominous clouds signaling the coming of Hurricane Helene’s rain could stop the allure of the oceanfront. With vendors extending down the beach for as long as the eye could see, I immediately began to explore. This weekend in Virginia Beach was far from ordinary as it was the 50th anniversary of NeptuneFest. NeptuneFest was created in 1973 to bring the community together with a variety of events. 50 years later the tradition carries on with stall after stall selling food and art for those visiting the array of competitions, concerts and more.
After exploring the boardwalk, we began our first night out at the Cavalier Hotel. As soon as the chauffeurs opened the doors, we were welcomed by jazz music echoing down the hall and dim lights reflecting from chandeliers onto checkered floors. The interior was classic, minimalist and a manifestation of the historic elegance of the hotel. As we walked into the bar alive with jazz musicians, we remarked how it felt reminiscent of The Great Gatsby. As it turns out, the Cavalier was a source of inspiration for F. Scott Fizgerald when he began writing his iconic story.
However, becoming the inspiration of a famous American story is only the tip of the iceberg of the Cavaliers’ claim to fame. It was the first hotel in the U.S. to house a distillery and its elegance even invited the presence of several U.S. Presidents. The fireplace of the bar downstairs may hold some of the greatest secrets of the Watergate scandal as Richard Nixon was reportedly seen burning papers in its flames. This pattern of mystery continues with the death of Coors Light’s founder, Adolph Coors, who allegedly committed suicide by jumping from his hotel window. However, very mysteriously, the window was locked behind him, and an autopsy was never completed. Some guests claim to have witnessed his ghost mingling outside the windows of the fourth floor- although it has yet to confirm the true story behind his death.
However, the incredible food from Becca was no mystery. The dining experience began on a beautifully furnished outdoor patio with bright lights and green vines enshrouding the intimate courtyard. I knew we were in for a treat from my first bite of the bread popover with sweet butter. The sauces for the oysters were the perfect mix of spicy and sour. The simple salt and pepper coating on the Mesquite-Wood Grilled Salmon permeated through the entire fish, while the Yuzu glaze created a unique taste that I’ve been craving since.
Day 2:
I woke up eager to begin my first full day exploring Virginia Beach- especially with the knowledge that our first adventure of the day would be with Moore To See Photo Expeditions. Erik Moore, or “Captain Erik” as we called him, is a retired teacher who grew up in Norway which inspired his passion for fishing and photography. This led him to open Virginia Beach’s only ecotourism business. Erim’s business is a hidden gem, and even locals are unaware that Virginia Beach is the most biodiverse area east of the mountains.
Within the first 20 minutes of the boat ride, we spotted a bald eagle resting in a nearby nest. This marked the beginning of many odes to nature along the river, ranging from Great Herons to Osprey nests. I felt a wave of tranquility wash over me as we drifted through the wetlands and listened to the wind sway with the grass in the same way it has since before the arrival of the first English settlers. The North Landing River is also home to pocosin, one of the least studied wetlands in the world. At the start of the colonial era, many settlers considered pocosin to be violent as it was inhabited by bears, bobcats and snakes. However, one brave botanist spent three summers studying it and discovered 20 new species. In between the rumble of the boat and the unified sway of the grass, we became surrounded by a sense of mystery, peace and discovery.
We dedicated the rest of the afternoon to visiting the bounty of historical sites in Virginia Beach. We began by exploring the Cape Henry Lighthouses at U.S. military base Fort Story. The ocean banks near the lighthouses were the first to welcome English settlers to the New World in 1607 where the 100 men and women aboard these ships would later establish Jamestown, the first permanent settlement. In 1792, George Washington authorized the construction of Cape Henry Lighthouse which became the American Government’s first construction project. A little distance away is a second lighthouse which was constructed in 1881 and is still used by the military. Across the street from the gift shop is a cross commemorating the first cross erected by the settlers after their arrival. Fort Story is an active U.S. military base so be sure to check out these regulations before you go.
From Cape Henry, we drove to the Thoroughgood House for a trip back in time. The house was likely constructed in 1719 by Adam Thorowgood who established Princess Anne County, known today as Virginia Beach. The floors, stairwell and furniture still have the touch of their original founders. Our tour guide did an excellent job of explaining fun facts about a variety of artifacts and the Thoroughgood family history. She even mentioned a fun piece of Canadian history as it is highly likely that John Simcoe (Canada’s first chief justice to vote against slavery), was related to the Thoroughgoods.
We ended the day with dinner at Tautog’s, a vibrant and charming seafood restaurant in a 1920s cottage. I ordered the Scallops Barca which came served on puff pastry and topped with a light lemon butter sauce. However, the star of the show was the tangy key-lime pie for dessert which was the best I’d ever tasted.
Day 3
We began our last full day at Virginia Beach with a splash of colour at the ViBe District. Once upon a time, the ViBe District was a high-crime neighbourhood which disbanded the community and created lots of vacancies. However, today the ViBe District is a testament to the power of art. Its vibrant murals and fun shops have certainly achieved its goal of revitalizing the area. During our visit, 10 artists were on the streets painting as it was the annual Mural Festival. This event provides American and International artists the chance to showcase their artistic process to the public. The streets were also alive with farmers markets, outdoor shops, cute restaurants and cafes.
Afterwards we eagerly made our way to Rudee Tours for dolphin watching. The bright sun glistened on both the waves and the boardwalk as we peered over the edge in anticipation. After about 20 minutes dolphins began gliding alongside the boat with their tales and faces peeking above the water.
Our last dinner was at Lovesong, which was another reflection of the class and innovation found across Virginia Beach. The restaurant was created as an ode to a friend who passed away and the music the owners adored. This passion and livelihood are evident in the cozy and friendly ambiance and the quality of the food. Each dish was just as unique as the next and packed with flavour. For appetizers, we enjoyed the spicy ibérico chorizo and salted cod fritters, which were fried to perfection. However, the course was even more impressive with the chicken liver mousse on crunchy sourdough and local puppy drum fish. We obviously made room for dessert and enjoyed a dense olive oil cake with dollops of whipped cream alongside a second round of delicious cocktails. However, the night was far from over as we enjoyed a live performance from Color Me Badd back at Neptune Fest.
Day 4
My last morning in Virginia Beach felt like a scene out of a fairytale. When I opened my window to take in one last view of the ocean, I was struck with disbelief as countless dolphins swam in the reflection of the sunrise.
As the dolphins began to disappear as the sun rose, we took one last stroll down the boardwalk to soak in the festivities of Neptune Fest. We began with a much-needed yoga session on the beach and then headed to the International Sandsculpting Championship, which truly blew me away. Neptune Fest is known for hosting sculptors from 15 countries who have three days to turn sand into incredible works of art. I could’ve spent hours appreciating the intricate designs—some of which managed to display an incredible sense of humour.
As I boarded my flight home, I felt very grateful for the array of pleasant surprises I discovered. Although Virginia Beach is known for its beach grandeur, the traces of important American history, kindness of the locals and livelihood of NeptuneFest left me feeling as if I’d experienced much more than simply a tourist beach town. Whether you’re drawn by its rich past, natural beauty, or the beach scene, Virginia Beach promises a well-rounded experience for all.
For more information, head to Visit Virginia Beach.
Header image: iStock