Greek Wines are Eternally Modern!

Greek wines until recently have been relatively unknown in Canada. But happily for wine lovers, that is changing and we see more of them at the LCBO. They are well worth checking out!

I was recently privileged to attend an exclusive Wines of Greece Masterclass, hosted at Buyers + Cellars in their elegant tasting room. Their chef prepared delectable plates of charcuterie to accompany our tasting. The Ambassador of Greece, Madame Dimakis, graciously welcomed us and initiated the session. Michelle Bouffard, journalist, internationally renowned sommelier and WSET teacher, led the class. Her expertise and dynamic presentation gave us an in-depth perspective into the remarkably wide range of Greek wines and grape varietals.

ABOVE: The Ambassador of Greece to Canada, Her Excellency Akaterini Dimakis, welcomed attendees at the Buyers + Cellars Wines of Greece Masterclass. RIGHT: Chef-prepared charcuterie plates that accompanied the wine tasting. 

A quick glance at a map of Greece immediately shows the diversity of topography and the range of terroirs in Greece, from mountainous areas in some regions to the many islands and even volcanic soils. Michelle pointed out that Greek wine production has always taken place on a very human, artisanal, small-scale pattern. The winemakers, therefore, can better optimize the distinct varietal characteristics of their region. The vineyards have been cultivated over such a long timeframe that Greek winemakers fully understand the potential of their vineyards. Their wines truly represent an authentic expression of ancient terroir, combining tradition with cutting-edge modern wine production methods.

Wine fact: almost 40% of Greek vine plantings are more than 40 years old. Old vineyards are well adapted to their local environment and provide great biodiversity in the vines. They give complexity and sense of terroir in the wines.

We tasted a dozen wines and learned a great deal about their history, terroir and flavour characteristics. Here are a few of my favourites from the event.

Kechris Kechribari Retsina 2023
Roditis, Thessaloniki, Greece

This was a pleasant surprise! Michelle explained that in the past, winemakers added up to 8% pine resin during fermentation; however, now restrictions allow for only about 1%. The result is a well-balanced white wine with a much more delicate pine aspect. Crafted from the Roditis grape varietal, it is fragrant, with aromas of pear, green apple and melon. The palate gives notes of lime and slight pine resin. This wine pairs well with garlicy grilled vegetables or feta cheese sprinkled with olive oil and oregano.

Dry • 11.5% • LCBO# 27137 • $10.25

Monemvasia Kydonitsa 2022 Organic
Laconia, Greece

This delicate, dry white wine was one of my favourites during the tasting. It is made from Kydonitsa, a rare indigenous grape grown in Laconia, in mainland Monemvasia. Beautifully aromatic, with aromas of tropical fruits, bergamot, apple, geranium and quince. Excellent acidity and a lingering finish make this wine a total delight. Pair it with phyllo pie or fresh fish with lemon and herbs.

Dry 13% • LCBO# VINTAGES# 33254 • $23.95

Ktima Spiropoulos Mochofilero 2023 Organic
Mantinia, Peloponnese, Greece

This refreshing white wine, made from the Mochofilero varietal, has the distinctive fragrance and flavour of roses throughout, on the nose, the palate and the finish, too. It also shows notes of citrus flowers and bergamot for a totally engaging sensory experience, with crisp acidity and a lovely lightness in the mouth. Highly recommended! Mochofilero is a great wine to pair with white fish or a seafood stew and is so fragrant that it also makes a beautiful sipper before a meal.

Dry 12% • LCBO# 710970 • $11.20 • SAQ# 13190982 • $17.65

Domaine Costa Lazaridis Amethystos Rosé 2022
Drama, Greece

An award-winning Rosé that is aromatic, elegant and dry. Amethystos is crafted from mainly Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, along with Merlot. Redcurrant and strawberry notes show on the nose, with a rich palate that repeats these flavours subtly with a well-balanced acidity. Pair it with Greek cuisine like stuffed vegetables, “ladera” (vegetables cooked in an olive oil-based sauce), seafood and fish in tomato sauce, or spicy Indian or Thai cuisine.

Dry • 12.5% • LCBO# 35746 • $24.95

Ktima Palivou Agiorgitiko 2020 Organic
Nemea, Peloponnese, Greece

This full-bodied red wine is made from the indigenous grape, Agiorgitiko, (named after St. George) grown in Nemea in the Peloponnese area. It offers enticing aromas of tobacco, dried red fruit and dark chocolate with hints of coffee, prunes, vanilla and red fruit jam. It has a rich and well-balanced mouthfeel, with velvety tannins and a flavourful finish. Pair this beauty with red meat or aged cheddar. This would be a great date night wine to savour beside the fireplace, too!

Dry • 12.5% • Private order – Apostolos Gerakinis (agerakinis@unitedstars.ca), Celebrity Wines & Spirits • $25

We were impressed by the variety of white wines made in Greece and by the richness of the reds. All of these wines are very reasonably priced and offer excellent value. I highly recommend that you try some Greek wine in your glass soon. It will be a delightful discovery!

For more wine and food discovery from Jane Staples, visit www.bellovinoj.com

Photos: Courtesy Effie Gervais, Office of Economic and Commercial Affairs, Embassy of the Hellenic Republic in Ottawa