It’s unlikely that you’ll ever patent some new tech, create a counter to the theory of relativity, or reinvent the wheel, but don’t worry. When it comes to the hospitality industry, innovation is alive and well.
Le Poisson Bleu (LPB) is a seafood restaurant on Somerset Street West in Chinatown, where Chef and Co-Owner Alex Bimm is doing just that. He has pushed the boundaries of what it means to offer seafood fare and shows no limits on elevating classics we know and love.
The best example is his dry-aged fish technique. I will let you marinate with that for a moment, just in case you glazed over it too quickly the first time. Dry-ageing refers to the process of removing moisture from a creature that literally spends its whole life in water. This might seem absurd, but when you’ve perfected the technique the way Chef Alex has, the result is some of the most unique dishes you’ll find anywhere.
The menu at LPB changes with the seasons, allowing Alex to regularly feature specials that match what the world has to offer at that time. In my many visits to LPB, I’ve never had the same bite twice, and I’ve been consistently impressed each time.
On my first visit, I had a traditional Italian carbonara. For those unfamiliar with the dish, it features guanciale, a fatty pork jowl rendered down to create a salty, delicious morsel tossed with the pasta. Alex took this dish and flipped it on its head. By dry-ageing tuna, he managed to create a guanciale replacement that looked, felt, and tasted just like the original, but there was not a single ounce of pork.
Chef Alex is more than just his dry-ageing fridge. His unique ability to pair flavours, reinvent classics, and take diners to the edge of his creative mind allows guests to experience dishes they won’t find anywhere else in the city.
Last week, I experienced the LPB fish and chips night. Every Monday, Alex serves what he believes to be the best fish and chips in the country. And I have to agree with his assessment.
When you think of fish and chips, you probably picture one to two pieces of battered fish, some fries, a couple of lemon wedges, and perhaps some tartar sauce to dip. Right?
Okay, now picture this instead: A whole, head-on, butterflied sea bass that has been cleaned and deboned, battered, and fried. The massive two- to four-person portion comes with thick-cut, crispy, triple-blanched fries and an umami-bomb anchovy salad dressing.
It was the most unique fish and chips I’ve ever tasted. The outer layer of batter was crispy and golden, followed by a fluffy barrier layer and, finally, the perfectly cooked and still moist sea bass flesh. The house-made tartar sauce and ketchup were the perfect accompaniments to the meal.
As per the chef’s recommendation, we paired the meal with the evening’s signature cocktail, a pickled kombu martini, which further emphasized the boundaries LPB pushes with its seafood dishes.
HOWEVER…
I had to save this last bite for last, as it is what I’m calling my BITE OF THE YEAR. It rivals anything I’ve tasted in a very long time, and it’s a feature, so I hope you can get it before it’s gone.
Before our fish and chip meal, Chef Alex brought over an oyster—specifically, a Dixon Point oyster from New Brunswick—the best oysters in the country. Although slightly smaller than their PEI cousins, a NB oyster is sweeter, has a milder brine, and is full of flavour. This fun little bite from the ocean was topped with uni (sea urchin), an incredible delicacy that I recommend everyone try at least once. Finally, the oyster was finished with olive oil, providing a uniquely velvety smooth texture that I’ve never had in an oyster, and apricot vinegar, which brought a fun play on the classic acidic addition we all love on shellfish.
I’m not exaggerating when I say, I licked the shell after the oyster was gone. It was so good that I will dream about it, perhaps forever!
The Monday night weekly fish fry is just one example of what LPB offers each week. It’s the perfect spot for a date night or celebration.
On Sundays, the restaurant offers an incredibly unique brunch and industry deals in the evening. With each visit, you can expect to experience something new and innovative from the brain of a culinary superstar (and if your partner is picky about their fish, don’t worry—the chef has them covered, too).
Le Poisson Bleu is my pick for the most creative restaurant in town. Run. Go make a reservation as fast as you can. I promise you will be dining at your new favourite restaurant in Ottawa.
Find Le Poisson Bleu at 610 Somerset Street West and online at www.lepoissonbleu.net
