British Columbia is a little bit easier to get to, thanks to increased airline competition. With Porter Airlines now flying to Vancouver and Victoria from Ottawa and seat sales always occurring, there is no better time to explore Canada’s paradise. This winter, escape to Vancouver Island, where island time, rainforest, mountains, culinary excellence, and a relaxed way of life reign.
Geographically large, roughly the size of Belgium, Vancouver Island is divided into six geographic areas, and if all you have is a week-10 days, the South Island (Victoria and Sooke area) and Pacific Rim — Ucluelet specifically — will fill your senses and revive your soul. (And wine aficionados should sneak in a visit to the nearby wineries in Cowichan.)
Victoria
B.C.’s provincial capital, surrounded by the sea, rainforest and mountains, is one of Canada’s gems. Its beauty is awe-inspiring, and its vibe is a sophisticated but chilled joie de vivre. The farm-to-table culture combined with an influx of talented chefs from around the world and affluence have contributed to Victoria’s exploding food scene. There are more restaurants here per capita than any other city in Canada, and many of them rank high among Canada’s best. Here are a few:
• Marileña Café and Raw Bar is relatively new and has taken the city (and national best restaurant lists) by storm.
• A Restaurant, Ate, and Hanks are three local award-winning restaurants.
• Ugly Duckling is a national award-winner with a creative twist on Chinese food. Located in Chinatown.
• Jones BBQ is one of the best BBQ joints. Anywhere. Eat your heart out, Texas.
• Blue Fox is the first all-day breakfast joint in Victoria — perfected to a fine art with the best bennies and avocado toast — always a bit of a wait but worth it. Victorians love breakfast and will wait a long time for their fav places. Since it is never cold, it isn’t really a problem.
• Another brunch hit is Jam Cafe.
Fancy a pint? The island loves craft beer. There are 20 brewers and counting, and tap rooms are everywhere. Hoyne, Phillips Brewers and Malting Co are vibrant, hip joints, as is Driftwood (a bit of a hike from downtown). Spinnakers, Canada’s oldest brewpub, is located in Esquimalt, over the Blue Bridge (Johnson St. Bridge) but within walking distance. Make sure you stop to take a look around while on the bridge. It has a great view of the Legislature and the mountains.
Victoria also has some of the best non-alcoholic beer in the country. Phillips Iota has a range of choices that you can even order on tap in many bars. (Bartholomew’s, Bard and Banker are historic pubs to boot.)
Looking for a different kind of pub experience? Leopold’s is quirky and fun, as is Big Bad John’s, where you can still eat a bucket of peanuts and dump the shells on the ground while listening to country music. Ladies can leave a memento on the ceiling.
Walk it Off
Central Victoria has some beautiful parks and paths.
• With 200 acres of forests, gardens, children’s play areas, a petting zoo, ponds, sporting facilities, and a bandstand, Beacon Hill Park offers year-round outdoor activities. It is home to peacocks, fountains, trees, peacefulness and the world’s second-tallest totem pole. The Moss Lady, a 36-foot-long sculpture, offers tranquillity and respite among giant cedars, maples, Garry Oaks, flowers, ferns, and ducks.
• The oldest Chinatown in Canada and the second oldest in North America, after San Francisco, is in Victoria. Be sure to stroll down nearby Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest street in Canada, three to six feet wide and 240 feet long, that runs between Fisgard Street and Pandora Avenue, and it is haunted.
• Dallas Road Waterfront Trail is an absolute must. Walk (or run) along the rocky beach or paved paths, stopping to take in the rugged scenery and Washington State’s Olympic Mountains, 30 km across the ocean. It is both serene and majestic. Mile Zero of the Trans-Canada Highway sits at the corner of Douglas and Dallas, with a statue of Terry Fox watching over it. The full length of the trail is roughly 5.5 km one way, but it is flat. Along the trail, detour to the Ogden Point Breakwater and then stop for a drink at the Break Water Bistro, which has stunning views. (If you visit in the summer, massive cruise ships dock near there and are worth a peek.)
A short drive away…
• East Sooke Regional Park is a bit of a drive, but it has it all. Rainforest, mountain view, beach, hiking. Quench your thirst at the historic 17 Mile House Pub (awarded the Best Guinness Pour in town by the brand itself in the site that used to be a schoolhouse and a place of faith.)
• Butchart Gardens are famous for good reason. Even if you aren’t into horticulture, it is impressive. They also host big-name concerts in the summer.
• Mount Douglas — a bit of a workout with steep spots (you can also drive up), and on a clear day, get a fabulous panoramic view of the area.
• Another fascinating spot is the Centre of the Universe, home to the Dominion Astrophysical Observatory – there are only two observatories in Canada, one is in Vic. It recently celebrated its 100th anniversary. Let the universe astound you.
Divine Wine
If the stars don’t dazzle you, the region’s wine will. While everyone thinks of Okanagan as the wine-making region of B.C., Vancouver Island has rich soil and wine-making conditions. There are 40 wineries on the island, many in the Cowichan area. (Averill Creek Estate, Blue Grouse. Unsworth Vineyards (their farm-to-table restaurant is delectable) and Enrico Winery are great visits. Enrico’s has a vibrant tasting room, is always full and has a great summer patio with live music.
But keep an eye out for winery signs on the highway and just pop by. You can’t go wrong.
If you are a fan of bubbly, there is an appellation unique to the island: Charme de l’Île, a delightful, crisp sparkling wine. Ortega wine is another area speciality, but all the whites are fabulous.
Church and State is not in Cowichan but in Victoria and has a fabulous tasting room and restaurant on a stunning site. For some Charme de l’Île fans, including me, Church and State’s is the best.
Sleep
Victoria: Oak Bay Beach Hotel
This five-star hotel may be out of the downtown core (a short but stunning 5.5 km drive), but it is spectacular.
Its mineral pool and spa overlook the ocean, Coast Mountains and Mount Baker (a volcano), and you could spend all day by the water, sipping fabulous wine by the pool—pampering rules at this hotel.
Splurge for an ocean view; it’s worth it.
Sooke: Point-No-Point Resort:
While the drive to Sooke is soothing, zigzagging through the rainforest, the purpose is to get to Point-No-Point for the experience of private cabins, a real fireplace and your own hot tub overlooking the ocean and rocks. Without wifi (and turn your data off!), phones, or TVs in the cabins, it feels like the secluded getaway it is.
The resort sells out months in advance, so book ahead or keep calling for a cancellation. It does happen. The restaurant is gourmet, and the site has its own hiking trail and firepit on the ocean. There is no place like it.
If peckish along the way, stop at Shirley Delicious. Celebrity sightings have been known to occur as it is a fabulous, chilled place to grab a bite.
On the Road to Ucluelet
Head back to Vic and start the trek to Ucluelet. Without stopping, it is a stunning four-hour drive. But stop along the way.
Goldstream Park at the bottom of Mount Finlayson on the Malahat Highway: easy, calming stroll. If you dare, Mount Finlayson is a challenging hike but worth it, but factor in a few hours.
Instead of climbing Mount Finlayson, a few kilometres up the highway, is The Malahat Skywalk, a second-to-none view of the area; no hard hike. A bit of leisurely walk among the trees and the upward spiral to 250 metres above sea to the top is gentle. You can walk down, but there is a slide that allows for a quicker and more exhilarating descent.
You will make your way past Nanaimo, home of the Nanaimo bar trail — take the bait and stop and grab some to take with you for the remaining 3.5 hours to get to Ucluelet.
One place to stretch your legs is MacMillan Park, aka Cathedral Grove, a short path that winds among majestic old-growth giants. Well worth the stop, but expect crowds.
After Port Alberni, there is nowhere to stop so also be sure to fill up on gas. The drive from Port Alberti to Ucluelet is breathtaking, even on rainy or cloudy days. Mountains, forests, lakes, and rivers that flow over huge rocks astound.
Ucluelet
Ucluelet is a Nuu-chah-nulth First Nation word (pronounced you-clue-let), which means ‘People of the Safe Harbour. It is the perfect storm watching location (yes, that is a thing), and hiking, biking, kayaking and surfing (all equipment is rentable) destination. Rainforest, volcanic rock, rugged coastlines, and stunning sunsets are all astonishing. These are what make Ucluelet spectacular. It is also a fabulously quirky destination where toques and wellies are high fashion—laidback luxury.
Pluvio Restaurant is consistently rated as one of the best restaurants in the country. Heartwood Kitchen: warm, hearty, simple sophistication for brunch. Currents Restaurant at Black Rock oceanfront resort is top-notch, fine dining with a view. The Ucluelet Brewing Company is a great place, where locals hang out for a pint.
Sleep
Splurge at the Black Rock Oceanfront Resort. It has all the amenities you expect from a five-star resort (big bathrooms, rain shower, heated floors, gas fireplace.) But it is the resort’s proximity to the mesmerizing crashing waves against volcanic rock that make Black Rock so spectacular.
It has a great pool and hot tub just feet away from the ocean (but not private) and while there is a very small gym, you won’t need it because of the Wild Pacific Trail.
The trail is one of the most magnificent walks in the country and makes Ucluelet the destination that it is. It winds along the coast and features benches to take in the scenery and appreciate the beauty. The lighthouse and the haunting sound of the buoys are reminders of the danger of the sea in foggy weather. There are information boards sharing details about the area, including shipwreck stories.
Nearby Pacific Rim National Park Reserve starts about 5 km from the centre of Ucluelet, runs close to Tofino, and delivers 150,000 acres of outstanding rainforest hiking and long sand beaches. Prime Minister Chrétien established this national park, keeping it pristine and without development. Pure magic.
While Tofino definitely has its charm, Ucluelet feels more intimate and genuine and is definitely the less touristy spot, which somehow makes it feel real.
There is only one highway in and out of the region, so you will get to see the magnificent splendour of the journey in reverse, and it is just as humbling.
The aftereffects of seeing such beauty and experiencing this magical place will probably leave you looking at real estate agents’ windows, hoping to relocate to this incredible part of Canada. However, it is one of the most expensive markets for a reason. Thankfully, it is accessible, and there is no doubt you will be back to visit again and again.
